Drying
Marijuana Horticulture
by Jorge Cervantes
After harvest, marijuana must dry before smoking. Drying converts THC from its non-psychoactive, crude, acidic form to its psychoactive neutral form. In other words, fresh green marijuana will not be very potent. Drying also converts 75 percent or more of the freshly harvested plant into water vapor and other gasses.
When you cut a plant or plant part and hang it to dry, the transport of fluids within the plant continues, but at a slower rate. Stomata close soon after harvest, and drying is slowed since little water vapor escapes. The natural plant processes slowly come to an end as the plant dries. The outer cells are the first to dry, but fluid still moves from internal cells to supply moisture to outer cells which are dry. When this process occurs properly, plants dry evenly throughout. Removing leaves and large stems upon harvest speeds drying; however, moisture content within the dried buds, leaves and stems is uneven. If buds are dried too quickly, chlorophyll and other pigments, starch, and nitrates are trapped within plant tissue, making it taste “green”, burn unevenly, and taste bad.
When dried relatively slowly, over five to seven days or longer, moisture evaporates evenly into the air, yielding uniformly dry buds with minimal THC decomposition. Slowly dried buds taste sweet and smoke smooth. Taste and aroma improve when pigments break down. Slow even drying – where moisture content is the same throughout stems, foliage, and buds – allows enough time for the pigments to degrade. Hanging entire plants to dry allows this process to take place over time.
To speed drying time, remove large leaves and stems upon harvest. Fresh supple leaves are easier to work with than when dry. When you are looking at manicuring 10 pounds you make it as easy as possible.
Plants with outer “fan” leaves intact take longer to dry and require much more time to manicure. The outer leaves from a sheath that helps protect delicate trichomes when drying, but this practice turns trimming dry leaves int a tedious, messy, two-step job.
Circulation and ventilation fans will help control heat and humidity and keep them at proper levels. You can also use a dehumidifier to control humidity. An air conditioner is ideal to “dial in” temperature and humidity in warm climates. Large drying areas may require a heater to raise temperature and lower humidity. Do not train fans directly on drying plants; it causes them to dry unevenly.
For best results, drying should be slow. Ideal air temperature is between 65 and 75F and humidity from 45 to 55 percent. Temperatures below 65F allow drying, and humidity often quickly. Humidity above 80 percent extends drying time and makes the threat of bud mold imminent. Temperatures above 75F may cause buds t dry too fast, and humidity can fall below the 50 percent level more easily. Temperatures above 85F cause buds t dry so fast that smoke becomes harsh. Relative humidity below 30-40 percent causes buds to dry too fast and retain chlorophyll, giving them a “green” taste. Fast dried buds become crispy and crumble. Low humidity also causes buds to lose flavor and odor. If humidity is between 30 and 40 percent, allow for minimum air movement to slow drying. Always use an accurate minimum / maximum thermometer and hygrometer to ensure temperature and humidity are kept in the ideal range.
Small harvests can easily be dried in a closet, cabinet, or a cardboard box that is a fraction of the growing area’s size. Large harvests require much more room. If drying space is a problem, a staggered planting schedule, or planting varieties that ripen both early and late, carries over to a staggered harvest that frees up drying space as buds dry.
Large outdoor and indoor crops need large spaces in which t dry. You can use the grow area as a drying room if not growing any plants. Do not dry plants in the same room in which plants grow. Different climates are required for growing marijuana and drying it. Fungus and spider mites can also migrate from dead plants to live ones. Inspect drying buds daily for any signs f fungus, mold, and spider mites. Smear Tanglefoot around the end of drying lines from a barrier which keeps mites from migrating to live plants. Mites congregate at the barrier and are easy to smash.
A cardboard or wooden box makes an excellent drying space to hang small harvests. The air flow in the enclosed area is diminished, and buds and leaves must be turned daily to even out the moisture content and discourage mold. Thread a large needle with dental floss, and string the floss back and forth thru the box near the top to make drying lines. If the box is tall enough, you can install several levels of drying lines. Lock the flaps on the box and set it in a closet or spare room. Open flaps to allow air circulation as needed. or, cut holes near the bottom and top of the box to allow air exchange and circulation. Check daily to see how buds are drying. if tops dry too fast, pen the box-top and set the box in a cooler location.
Hanging plants is a labor-saving way to facilitate slow, even drying. Large, moist stems can also be removed and small branches hung from ceiling to cut drying time by few days.
Use clothespins to attach branches to drying lines, or poke a paper clip thru the base of branches and hang clip from line. Another option is to trim branches to form a hook and hang from the “hook”.
Use a portable foldable clothesline to make quick mobile drying room. Unfold clothesline, hang buds from lines, and cover with a large, black bed sheet or cloth. The cloth sheet allows the exchange of air and maintains darkness. Train a fan on the outside of the sheet so air circulates underneath and dries buds.
Building a small drying room is as easy as tacking some plywood together at right angles and hanging lines across the enclosure. Or you can make walls from black Visqueen plastic by tacking or taping it to the ceiling and floor to form walls.
Drying a large harvest can require a large space. If you have a large space such as a bedroom, barn, shed, etc, cut plants at the base and remove large leaves, and hang on drying lines in the room. Cut branches from 12-40 inches. manicure each branch and hang on drying lines to complete the drying process.
Save space by building r buying drying racks for the buds. Make drying racks from window screen or plastic agricultural netting. Stretch the screen or netting over a wooden frame and secure with staples. Put three to six inch spacers between framed screens to allow adequate airflow. Or build a drying box with removable screens.
hang manicured buds to dry for a day or two before placing on drying screens to allow the bulk of the moisture to dissipate. Once on screens, buds should be turned daily to ensure even drying.
Manicured buds can also be placed in boxes to dry. Move buds daily so new surfaces are exposed t air. Buds dry slower, because the air flow is reduced. Line boxes with plastic or aluminum foil to contain for collection resin glands that fall to the bottom. To contain resin glands, seal cracks in boxes with tape.
Drying time depends upon temperature, humidity, and bud density. Most buds will be dry enough to cure in five to seven days. Big, fat, dense buds can take three to four days longer. Gently squeeze buds after they dry for a few days to check for moisture content. bend stems to see if they are done. If the stem breaks rather than folds, it is ready to cure.
Check for dryness by bending a stem. the stem should snap rather than fold when bent. The bud should be dry to touch, but not brittle. The bud should burn well enough to smoke when dry.
Light (UV rays), heat, and friction hasten biodegradation and are dry and drying, marijuana’s biggest enemies. Keep dried marijuana off hot car dashboards and away from heat vents, etc. Friction and rough handling bruise and knock off resin glands. Even with proper drying and curing, brutal handling of harvested marijuana will diminish THC content. Baggies and fondling hands rupture millions of tiny resin glands in the world every minute! To keep dried marijuana in mint condition, store it in a dark, airtight, glass container, and place it in the refrigerator. Ordinary canning jars allow buds to be admired as well as protected. Glass containers do not impart any plastic or metal odors and contain the pungent fragrance of fresh marijuana buds. Placing an orange or lemon peel in the jar will add a citrus aroma to the bouquet.